Coree & Hollywood > climbing

          
     

 

Coree was the first crag in the ACT to see climbing in 1958 by John Hammond and over the next 25 years saw some 70 routes put up. Most of these are hard to find and were not on the walls where there is now sports climbs. Peter Aitchison did publish a guide in 1967 called 'Rock Climbs in the Australian Capital Territory' if one so desired to rediscover these routes. The newer sports climbs were mostly put up between 1996-99 by George & Sarah Fieg, Glen Jones, Justin Ryan, Chris Warner and Nathan Wales. There are now over 75 climbs that spread along the ridge of MtCoree.

The weather at Coree can vary greatly, the cliffs get most of the days sun so it can get very hot in summer. Because of Coree's altitude at 1400m it can get quite cold in winter and often snows, but if there's no wind and the sun is out conditions are excellent. Best times to climb though are spring and autumn.

To get there drive west of Canberra and get onto Brindabella Road (via the Cotter or Uriarra Rd), drive to you get to Piccadilly Circus which is an intersection on a saddle in the Brindabella Range. Turn right and head north along the dirt road(Two Sticks Road), at 7km you pass a turn to your right, keep going straight about another 1km and you will see the boulder of Hollywood on the right. Continue for another 1km or so and there's a right turn, take this road, its the summit road to the main climbing. Drive as far as you feel comfortable as the road gets a little rough. Best to park on the last bend after you drive past an open gate near the top. Wind Wall is the first wall to your left, 20m walk.

There is a more direct way by taking the first right after you hit the dirt on Brindabella Road, continue down to the creek, cross the little ford and take the first left (Curries Rd) and power up the hill to meet Two Sticks Road at the southern end of Coree. Now turn right and continue as above first passing Hollywood.

   200 Motels, Hollywood        
jerusalem, MtCoree
   
Honey White, Mt Coree 
          All topos copyright Chris Warner
 
                                                                                                           

Hollywood >

This dense little crag sports some of the steepest, hardest and shortest routes in Canberra. Hollywood sits on the western side of Mt Coree about 100m off Two Sticks Road on the up hill side just before a section of scree, park on the bend and walk up track. There is also bouldering around the base of the the climbs.

  
© c.warner
 
                                                                            
16. Right Here Right Now, 25
	  G.Jones
17. 200 Motels, 29
	  G.Fieg
18. Ice, 27
	  S. Fieg
19. Return of the Real, 24
	  S.Fieg
20. Chilled Left Eyeball, 20
	  S. Fieg
21. Chilled Right Eyeball, 17
	  M.Peck
      
    
1. Leisure master, 20
	G.Jones
2.The 12th Monkey, 25
   G.Jones
3. 27
    G.Fieg
4. Vicious, 29
	G.Fieg
5. Get Ballistic, 28
	G.Fieg
     
6. Head on a Stick, 26
	  G.Fieg
7. Link up 24?
    S. Fieg
8. Bombs Away Pretzel Boy, 23
    S.Fieg
9. Brokenwood Cricket Pitch, 25
    S.Fieg
10. Born to Fade, 22
     G.Jones
   
11. Flat Head, 21
		S. Fieg
12. Weasels Ripped My Flesh, 26
		G.Fieg
13. Sinister Foot ware, 28
		G.Fieg
14. Nikita, 27
		P.Cuthbert
15. Alien Blueprint,28
		G.Feig
        
      
Mt Coree >                         overview map              (not to scale)
                                              
     
     
        
Pretty Gully
                                                                                      
                            
From the car walk straight down the loose rock and drop into the little gully
on the left. Then scramble down some broken rock to the base of the climbs.
                    
    


1. Raining Pleasure, 17
    N. Wales
2. Memory Relapse, 22
    J.Ryan
3. Shish.. 24
    C.Warner
4. Quintessence, 
    open project
5. Meet her at the love parade, 17
    C.Warner
                                           
  © c.warner                            
 
   
        
Pretty Backside
                                                             
                    
This area can be accessed from Pretty Gully by walking around the corner or you can 
approach from the top and scramble down to the right between the two little walls
(looks harder than it is). This area has a few good easy routes.
              
  
1. School Girl Fantasies, 14
    C.Warner
2. King Cup No.1, 13
    N.Wales
3. Brillo Pad, 15
    N.Wales
4. Super Discount, 18
    N.Wales
5. 8 Items or Less, 17
    N.Wales
6. Fermeture Definitive, 17
    N.Wales
 
 
© c.warner
  
                  Wind Wall
      
                              
This is the main wall at Coree with the highest concentration of routes.
It also has the easiest access, a big 20m from the car.
                        
                                          
© c.warner
          
1. Dance Macabre, 13
2. Catabolic, 18.  
    H.Meffin
3. Catatonic, 21
    J.Ryan
4. St Vitus Dance, 18
5. Jerusalem. 19
    J.Smart
6. Laidback International, 23
    C.Warner
          
  7. Super Jesus, 21
      C. Warner
  8. Minutes to Midnight, 24
      S.Carter, K.Lawton
  9. Kush, open  project
10. Northern Lights, 23
      J.Ryan
11. Russiafication, 23
      C.Warner
12. Pale Blue Fade, 23
      C.Warner
      
13. Copernican Direct, 24
      C.Warner
14. Copernican, 25
      N.Wales
15. Neo Techno Grind, 24
      C.Warner
16. Thunk, 25
      C.Warner
17. Mank, 22
     Warner, Wales, Ryan
                                  
 
   
  
Little Scar Face
          
                        
Continue down passed Wind Wall to reach this little buttress.
                                  
                                                                                                                

1. Super Bug Seventy Three, 17
    C.Warner
2. Original Retro Theory, 18
    C.Warner
3. Keep on Truck'n, 23
     N.Wales
© c.warner  
 
   
  
South Park
                      
                
This area sits up and along from Little Scar Face, but can also be accessed from
the top by walking down from a big steel post that's near the road on top.
                            
      



1. Lobo Arete, 22
    J.Ryan
2. Flying Fuck in a Rolling Donut, 23
    J.Ryan
3. Head Effect, 22
    J.Ryan
4. Boggy Nights, 23
    J.Ryan
5. Honey White, 25
    C.Warner
6. Chocolate Salty Balls, 20
    N.Wales
7. Heavy Cloud, 23
    C.Warner
                  
        
© c.warner
                       
 
    
Eco-Terroism
                      
            
This area is on its own little terrace, to get there continue along from Little Scar Face,
passing beneath South Park. The track slowly rises and squeezes you along a little
ledge onto the terrace.
          
1. Sunday, 14
    C.Warner
2. Blue Jay Way, 15
    N.Wales
3. Blur, 20
    N.Wales
4. Hello Nasty, 18
    C.Warner
5. Revolver, 22
    C.Warner
6. Shake it baby show no shame 22
    J.Ryan
7. Mama Pyjama, 25
    C.Warner
8. Buena Vista, 25
    N.Wales
9. Fly Boy Baby, 25
    C.Warner
10. Supa Dupa Fly, 23
      J.Ryan
     
Neo-Tokyo
        
To get to this crag walk to the fire tower on top of Coree and follow down the ridge on a faint 
track passing cairns. After several 100 meters drop off to the right.
          





1. Replicant, 22
    N.Wales
2. Given'em up Dope, 20
    C.Warner
3. Titus Andronicus, 17
    C.Warner
                             
© c.warner                                            
    
Sun Wall
                                                 
Continue past Neo-Tokyo walking above Sun Wall and drop down an easy angled rock face, 
then cut back to reach the base of Sun Wall.
      
                                                    

4. The Golden Age, 17
    N.Wales
5. Shadows of the Evening Sun, 16
    C.Warner
6. Azimuth, 21
    N.Wales
 
© c.warner
 
      
The Lime
                                                          
              
Walk down and left from Sun Wall.
This crag can also be accessed by walking straight up from Hollywood.
                                
      



1. Spring Fling, 17
    C.Warner
2. Easy Ass Hussy, 20
    C.Warner
3. Last Splash, 27
    C.Warner
4. Lime Tree Arbor, 24
    N.Wales
                               
      © c.warner